Quote:
Originally Posted by clev
Thank you, port, for taking the time to discuss this with me, and having patience with my lack of knowledge on this project. Rather than go to PM, I'll continue here, just in case others are following for information.
1. All of my solar instructions show direct connections to the batteries. Would they not charge better with a direct connection? Would they not lose a degree of charging power by being routed through the bus, to the inverter, through the shunt and fuse, and then to the batteries?
2. Except for a LARGE shunt on the negative and LARGE fuse on the positive, the LARGE cables connect directly to the 2800 magnum inverter. Do I install the bus bar cables directly to the lugs on the inverter with the large cables?
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Clev, again I am not a SOLAR expert - yet. Although by the time I start that project I expect to be
So take this as it may be.
I do have extensive expeierence in the 12 Volt DC world of cars, truck, boats and RV's
My opinions.
If you are using the proper battery interconnecting cables, and by that I mean either marine grade or welding cable of 2/0 or 4/0 AWG, the voltage drops you might be concerned with would be minimal, minimal to point you probably could not measure it with typical VOM. And even if your meter could read a drop, 4 meters in a row would probably read different.
Any product you may purchase may very well include instructions that proper supply power could only be achieved by wiring directly to the batteries. It is not unusual on boats to perhaps have 3 or 4 dozen marine electronics that "require" direct wiring to the batteries".
Imagine that rats nest!
The other thing to consider is battery service. Why would you want to deal with a dozen extra wires if you have to remove a battery?
Or if you are using lead acid batteries, why subject all those extra wires to the electrolyte?
If it was mine:
Battery ---> #1 battery disconnect ---> fuse ---> shunt ---> inverter
Inverter ---> (the above shunt & fuse) AND #2 battery disconnect ---> bus bar
SOLAR ---> battery disconnect ---> whatever is required in the SOALR circuit (MPPT, etc) ---> battery side of #1battery disconnect
BUS bar ---> as required switchable breakers for higher loads and the trailer systems.
I like the Blue Seas marine breakers. Excellent product, a bit pricey but I have never been disappointed.
Amazon search blue seas 100 amp breaker
I specifically use this version.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-7144...00+amp+breaker
Examples of circuits I use these breakers for coming off my BUS bar;
80 amp - hydraulic pump, slides and LevelUp
50 amp - Hynautic brake pump
50 amp - feed to the trailers 12 volt systems
30 amp - feed to an industrial battery connector on the side near my docking station. I use this for my 12 macerator pump, mostly for when we get home.
Of course your needs would vary.
The above works for me.
I leave the trailer plugged in pretty much year round only because I do not have SOLAR on this rig.
But if desired I can isolate my batteries or my inverter or my trailer sub systems. Some people prefer the ability to turn off one master switch, for me I like options.
One other item I have not mentioned above is a simple 2" digital LED voltmeter connected to the battery side of the #1 battery switch. This allows me to see the battery state at any time at the batteries. That gauge is mounted in a small box that has a simple push button on off switch.