Low Water Flow

[rjohnsonnm]

I've been concerned that the shore water flow is seriously low even with my pressure regulator set at 60# (it's not a cheap regulator and I also have an attached guage so I'm sure my pressure is OK). So, I decided to test the flow with and without the filter. The difference in flow was phenomenal. I tested all three faucets (kitchen, bath, and shower) for quantity vs. time with the filter inside the housing and with it removed. I got an average of 60.3% increased flow rate with the filter removed!!! Now, I know that a filter is going to slow the rate of flow to some extent, but it took 3 min 24 sec. to fill the small kitchen sink with the filter and only 1:16 w/o the filter. You can hardly rinse dishes at that rate, musc less take a shower. The reason I even decided to check was whenever we run any water, the pump runs constantly. I don't believe that should be happening. Even flushing the toilet causes the pump to come on. Do your pumps run constanlty when you turn on any water. BTW, I am using a $39.00 whirlpool carbon filter from Lowe's.
Ron

[sigo'suite]

Everyone has their own theory I guess, but I never use a pressure regulator. The lines in the rig are 100 psi lines, and in my limited travels I have never had an occasion where I felt I needed to use a pressure reg. Let me add here that I have 3 I have accumulated over the years in the belly of the coach; so it is not like I don't have one if I so wanted to use it.

On another note, am I understanding that you are having to use the Shurflo pump even when hooked up to outside water source? I've never had to do that if that is the case.

My pump does however run most all the time when using onboard water.

Happy Camping,

Ron

[wingnut60]

On the SBtalk forum, several members have paralleled 2 filters to increase flow without losing filtration/pressure. May also want to try a different filter brand. The filter in my MS doesn't affect flow very much at all, but not sure of the filtration--it has a culligan filter. And since you are losing pressure thru the filter, why not take out the regulator and use the filter as the regulator to see if that improves flow.

[Motor31]

Our rig will lose flow as soon as the filter becomes clogged. We use the charcoal impregnated filter available from wallyworld in the filter section of the store. They are 5 GPM flow rated filters and good for 15,000 gallons. The number of gallons and time are dependant on the quality of water you put through the system. They also are inexpensive at wally world since I get 2 in one package for $10.00. We are in a rather lousy water quality (taste) area right now and the filter does a great job at making the water taste good.

We use a pressure regulator, not the cheap plastic or brass ones in RV stores but a residential adjustable one. It flows 5 GPM and is set for 65 PSI. I have a seperate gauge and check the pressure at the spigot. If the pressure is over 60 PSI I use the regulator. I've been at a couple parks where the pressure was over 100 PSI and do not need to break a line in the rig.

[rverdlm]

I know that the water lines in the coach are tested to 100 psi, but the safe operating pressure is 65 psi. IMHO everyone should carry a good regulator because some parks have water pressures over 100 psi. I have a Watts adjustable regulator and a 2 stage filter both of which I bought here http://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/index.htm This site has a lot of info on water systems. I use their most popular dual canister system. This has a 1 micron sediment filter followed by a 1/2 micron carbon filter. 1/2 micron is small enough to filter out most water born micro-organisms. Everything has a flow rate of 4 gpm at 60 psi. This gives good showers and the water taste great! The filters typically last over 6 months. The whole system cost is only a little over $100. I think this is little to pay to have good safe water where ever we travel. Many RV parks have well water and we have no way of knowing the quality. Since most organisms will enter the body via the eyes and mouth while showering it's important to have the whole system have safe water.

[Wife of Big Doofus]

On the SBtalk forum, .

Where is the SBtalk forum?

[ponch]

Dave

What if anything does this do for the hard water problem/sediment.

Where you and Barb at now?

Ponch

[rdunk]

If the pressure gauge is set at 60lbs, then it is not the problem.

I would guess your problem is related to your filter. Either it is dirty and needs to be replaced, (which is probably not the case). or the filter is designed for high filtration, which can significantly affect/reduce the gpm water flow. I needed to replace my filter, and bought a filter cartridge from a dealer, even after he had advised against it, because he said it would reduce my water flow - "great filter, but would restrict the flow"

You know what, he was right! It really did reduce the flow.I used the filter anyway for quite a while (to get something out of my $45).

We do need the finest water filtration, as Dave suggests, but we also need an acceptable flow of water. Therein may lie a level of compromise for each of us., I will change out the Shurflow, but don't know right now which I will change to. It at least,will be one that I can buy o-rings for. :o

[wingnut60]

Wife of the Big Doofus---

www.sunnybrooktalk.com a site much like the ms section of this 5th wheels forum.

Lots of trailer info, without anyones ego getting the best of them. I used to have Sunnybrooks before getting the MS.

Great Name!

[Motor31]

Some filter packages state the water flow rate the filter will support. In the case of the filter I listed from wallyworld it is rated at 5 GPM, same as the plumbing in our rigs, with the exception of the low flow fixtures. If you get a filter with a 2 GPM flow rate you will have full pressure at the fixture only when the tap is closed. As soon as you open the valve the water pressure will drop as the filter can't flow enough water to maintain a pressure stream. The smaller the filter pores are and or the more dense the filter media is the less flow, particularly at 40 PSI. This is the same siituation you get when the filter gets clogged through use.

Flow rate is the reason those little cheap inline water pressure regulators cause the flow to drop so dramaitcally in our rigs. They do reduce the pressure but they also reduce the flow so much you don't get a decent flow from the tap or in the shower. A residential style regulator will reduce the pressure and allow a good flow rate of water with the tap open. The RV filter store has a great regulator or you can go to a hardware store and put together the same kind of regulator assembly (regulator plus hose fittings) yourself. The cost is about the same depending on where you go.

[rverdlm]

Ponch, we are in Dubois, WY. That's just east over the mountain from Jackson Hole and the Grand Tetons. We'll be here all summer because we're volunteering in a small museum here. In answer to the other question, the filters do nothing for a hard water problem. While in the Valley, where as you know the water is very hard, we bought a small RV water softener. when I hook up the water it goes. Regulator (if needed) hose, softener, filter, RV. I also treat all water that goes into my tank. This works well for us and our showers are great. One other thing that was mentioned by the original poster on this thread is that his pump always runs when using water. This is something else I learned the hard way. There are 2 switches for the pump. One outside in the water hookup door and the one in the closet. I thought I had a wire shorted because I couldn't get the pump off. I had forgotten about the outside switch. I called Kent about a wiring schematic and he reminded me. Felt kind of dumb!

[ponch]

dave
Sounds like a good place to work at only because of it's physical location.
SHould be very pretty there I would think.

Thanks for the other info.

Take care
Ponch