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View Full Version : Hello from San Juan Bautista, CA


astrahsburg
04-04-2017, 01:03 PM
I just purchased a used 2007 38 RL3. We've been shopping for over a couple years now and this thing just fell in our lap. The wire transfer just completed and it is getting transported tonight.

We having been looking at new units like Montana and others, but I just kept struggling with the initial loss in value of a new unit. This guy has everything we want at a 3rd of the price of what we would have paid for a lower quality new unit and it is in pristine condition.

I'm sure I will have a ton of questions about how things are wired up in this guy. I have a few upgrades planned like a dish washer and power dump valves. Eventually we want to pull the range and replace with a stove as well, but that's lower on priority.

We've been living in a 32' Jayco class C with no slides for the last few years, so this is going to be a HUGE living upgrade for us.

Stripit
04-04-2017, 07:36 PM
Wow, how exciting for you. Your going to get lost wandering around in all that space your moving into. This is a great bunch here and will help answer your questions as you think of them.

wingnut60
04-04-2017, 10:33 PM
Congratulations on the new-to-you Suites--they can be great trailers to travel or live in.
We had an '05 36TK3 for 10 years and traded it for a '15 38RSSA. The '05 did a yeomans job for us, I am sure the RL3 will for you also.
We also had the stovetop changed to an oven/cooktop, we also had a factory dishwasher near the rear end of the island.
There are quite a few similarities between the '05 and yours--will be glad to help if I can, just ask. My direct email is joedobry@gmail.com

astrahsburg
04-06-2017, 03:47 PM
Took delivery this morning and got it almost all set up. Few things have popped up.

a: Brakes are not functioning. This will probably take a lot more research to dig into but since this thing is going to just sit here, it doesn't really matter.

b: Hydraulic leak. Slides are out and landing gear is down, but my tank is now empty and I can't level. There's oil moisture on the front left jack, so I assume it needs new seals. Can I just stop at Camping World or automotive shop to pick up fluid to add to the tank? Is there a process needed to clear air from the line? What's the best way to fill the tank, it doesn't look like there's enough room to get a bottle tipped up inside where the tank is.

c: No hot water yet. The Supply to the tank was off and anode removed. Pictured is it's current condition. I reinstalled and turned the hot water on both inside the house and with the rocker switch at the tank. Burner fired up, but what controls whether it runs off propane or elec?

Should I go ahead and replace the anode? https://www.dropbox.com/s/jom04muhao8exhm/2017-04-06%2009.49.58.jpg?dl=0.

d: Grey water valve appears to be stuck. I was going to replace with electronic valves anyway, so not too big of a deal. Haven't tried Black tank yet, but hopefully that valve works properly.

I think that's it for now. I'm sure I will discover more this weekend, but so far so good.

wingnut60
04-06-2017, 04:41 PM
The water heater (on my '05) works off a small rocker switch located in the electric/control closet area--should say DSI and have a small red LED next to it. If you flip the switch, the LED should come on and go out when the propane lights. The electric is also controlled by a rocker switch--in mine, it looked just like a wall switch and was also located in the same panel area. The heater should work with either source, or both on at same time. You need to be outside at the heater and have someone flip the DSI switch and you should hear some clicking and then the propane will light. All this assumes you have propane and have purged air from the lines.
My unit did not have any indicator the electric was on, just flip the switch and wait...
I would not let CW work on my trailer unless you happen to know your closest store is a 'good' one--lots of not-so-good ones around--use automatic transmission fluid to refill the tank, and a battery fill tube/bulb to get it in there.
Whoa, you said you have propane heating it? Then you just have to wait til it gets hot. Propane will not fire if water is already at temp. As I said, both heat sources will work at same time, so give it time to heat. If the anode was clean and smooth, then it should be ok. When propane turns itself off, then turn on the electric and see if it stays hot...
Grey water valve is located by following the drain pipe back to the plastic housing where it disappears into. You willhave to lower the housing or cut into it to remove. Once you get it lowered or off, you can access the grey valve. The black valve is inside the basement directly behind the water manifold or in that area if you don't have the manifold. Being a contortionist will help on both these valves.

astrahsburg
04-06-2017, 05:04 PM
My anode picture didn't come through, here it is again.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/jom04muhao8exhm/2017-04-06%2009.49.58.jpg?raw=1

You can see the on off switch on the bottom left. i'm guessing this is the electrical side of it and that the gas on/off is in the control panel.

astrahsburg
04-06-2017, 05:10 PM
I would not let CW work on my trailer unless you happen to know your closest store is a 'good' one--lots of not-so-good ones around--use automatic transmission fluid to refill the tank, and a battery fill tube/bulb to get it in there.
Yeah, I have no intention of CW working on this thing. I like to do things myself so I know how to fix when things go awry. I was just curious about sourcing the fluid. If it's just any transmission fluid, then I can get that from auto parts store. Thanks for the battery/bulb idea.

Whoa, you said you have propane heating it? Then you just have to wait til it gets hot. Propane will not fire if water is already at temp. As I said, both heat sources will work at same time, so give it time to heat. If the anode was clean and smooth, then it should be ok. When propane turns itself off, then turn on the electric and see if it stays hot...

Definately saw it light up.


Grey water valve is located by following the drain pipe back to the plastic housing where it disappears into. You willhave to lower the housing or cut into it to remove. Once you get it lowered or off, you can access the grey valve. The black valve is inside the basement directly behind the water manifold or in that area if you don't have the manifold. Being a contortionist will help on both these valves.

Sounds like more work than I was envisioning, but thanks for the info. Will have to prepare for this one.

Stripit
04-06-2017, 06:23 PM
That rod is almost like new, reuse it. Make sure you have water in the tank before either using the gas or electric system, But you knew that already....

wingnut60
04-06-2017, 11:44 PM
Yes, the rod is ok to reuse. But you need to work on cleaning up the threads on both it and the tank...or you may find a real problem when you next want to remove it.
There is a pair of reset buttons behind the blank rubber square housing above straight above the gas assembly. It is soft rubber and has to spots to push in on--I would remove that rubber cover and check the reset buttons and be sure you push them in.
If you have the time and inclination, the entire heater area needs a good cleaning with a rust remover, being careful not to let it run down on the paint below. Keeping these appliances clean will go a long way towards them living a long life.

wingnut60
04-06-2017, 11:53 PM
Some owners say Dexron is needed, but I have always used any generic trans fluid. Be sure not to squeeze the bulb hard 'cause the open end ain't pointed down...
Generally, the reservoir should be filled with the 2 main slides in and the bedroom out--I believe that is when the max level will be in the resevoir--you don't wnat to fill it when the slides have the fluid in the rams or it will overflow. Wipe down all the fittings with paper towels--they probably all have a little fluid on them--then you can see if any of them are actually leaking now. If you tighten a fitting, use a backup wrench, don't just turn on the fitting without a backup.
Once you have the fluid up to correct level, working the slides in/out should eventually work out any air, and I have heard the correct order to do this is door slide/kitchen slide/bedroom out and then reverse that orde in--several times. This may also alert you to if you actually have a leak somewhere.
Joe

astrahsburg
04-07-2017, 11:32 AM
I didn't see the message about bringing the slides in before filling, but I just added 2 quarts of Dexron with a hand transfer pump, so that ended up being uneventful. I think my level on the outside is not accurate though. When it says level you can definately feel a heavy downslope to the back of the vehicle from inside. Hopefully the 2 quarts won't be too much, but if they are I will use the same pump to remove a little bit now that I have it.

I managed to figure out the water heater too. There was a flow valve that was in a half way position, so it was filling the hot water tank from cold water, but it was also supplying the manifold with more cold water than hot. After that I ended up with almost a trickle in the kitchten which resulted in pulling the faucet apart and removing sediment from it's filter. This weekend I plan on dumping the hot water tank again and running some vinegar through it along with cleaning up the threads on the anode socket and anode itself. If not this weekend, maybe next.

We got to sleep in it for the first time last night. Need to drop in a new Memory foam matress, but other than that, very very happy. It really feels like home.

Now to order new awning fabric (ended up being 16') and a skirt for the front.

wingnut60
04-07-2017, 01:58 PM
Sorry that I forgot about that valve--it is a 3-way in that it never shuts off flow--all way to either stop is hot or cold, and anywhere between is mixing cold with the hot to keep water cooler if too hot, as DSI does not have temp adjustment.
Get a 2 or 3' level and lay in floor near door. Use that area to check level, don't depend on your lying eyes....level side/side, then front/back. Marbles and ball bearings will tell a real tale, and to some people, the trailer is level when the bathroom door stays put or swings slightly to closed.
Did you say you had the auto-level? or manual?

astrahsburg
04-07-2017, 02:07 PM
Not autolevel. I will pick up a 3' level and check it that way. I only see a way to operate the landing jacks front and back together. Not individually, so not sure how to level side to side.

astrahsburg
04-07-2017, 02:09 PM
@Wingnut, which Dishwasher and oven did you install?

wingnut60
04-07-2017, 02:26 PM
First, if not auto-level, then the unit must be leveled side/side using blocks (1 & 2" x 8" wood is common) before unhitching. If unlevel s/s, and you can't move it, you will have to jack the low side up and put something under the tires.
Then, you use the front jacks to raise/lower the unit until it shows level. Then you lower the rear jacks to stabilize the whole trailer.
DO NOT use the rear jacks to actually lift the trailer, frame is not designed for that. You will see the rear end start to rise when extending the rear stabilizing jacks--that is the time to stop. Also, for long-term stability, it usually is best to have some blocks under the jacks to keep them from being extended to near maximum. I think you have said this is more/less permanent setup? If so, and you have a hydraulic leak, but system works (justs leaks) you can figure out how to place solid jacks under the frame to keep it from leaning if the jacks move.
Second, the D/W was in the trailer from the factory and, sorry, can't remember the brand. It was located to right of the double sink and power/water/drain run to sink. The stove/oven put in was an Amana, nothing fancy, but my wife wanted an oven. The install could not be told from factory install, but you lose the 2 drawers below the cooktop for storage.

astrahsburg
04-07-2017, 04:33 PM
First, if not auto-level, then the unit must be leveled side/side using blocks (1 & 2" x 8" wood is common) before unhitching. If unlevel s/s, and you can't move it, you will have to jack the low side up and put something under the tires.
Then, you use the front jacks to raise/lower the unit until it shows level. Then you lower the rear jacks to stabilize the whole trailer.
DO NOT use the rear jacks to actually lift the trailer, frame is not designed for that. You will see the rear end start to rise when extending the rear stabilizing jacks--that is the time to stop. Also, for long-term stability, it usually is best to have some blocks under the jacks to keep them from being extended to near maximum. I think you have said this is more/less permanent setup? If so, and you have a hydraulic leak, but system works (justs leaks) you can figure out how to place solid jacks under the frame to keep it from leaning if the jacks move.

I definitely need to redo my setup I guess, I will do that when I get home tonight. I have jack stands I used to use under my old RV, but I don't think they are high enough to reach the 5th wheel frame (at least not where the hydraulic jacks are). Would a king pin stabilizer be enough to hold the weight for side to side leveling?

Second, the D/W was in the trailer from the factory and, sorry, can't remember the brand. It was located to right of the double sink and power/water/drain run to sink. The stove/oven put in was an Amana, nothing fancy, but my wife wanted an oven. The install could not be told from factory install, but you lose the 2 drawers below the cooktop for storage.
Yeah, wife already knows we are going to loose the 2 drawers. I've been looking at the Atwood stainless 21" so it matches the fridge right next to it.

For the dishwasher, i'm looking at the Fisher Paykel Stainless Drawer style. Our sink is not on the center island and is on the wall between the Kitchen living room, so looking to install at the bottom left of that.

wingnut60
04-07-2017, 05:52 PM
Another question before anything else on leveling--are you on a cement/asphalt surface?
Important if you are not for future settling into ground...if on dirt/gravel, etc--you should have something under the wheels that is solid--1 or 2x8 treated lumber is usually good. If on a paved surface, then maybe only something under the low-side wheels if off-level.
If sxs hasn't been bothering you already, then maybe ok already, but this will change later if on soft surface.
If you need to level sxs, then best way without a truck to move it is to get a floor jack or a bottle jack that will fit under the spring mounting plate (flat steel plate with the u-bolts thru it holding springs to axle) and jack each wheel up, then place needed boards under each one. Then it on to f/r leveling--raise rear stabilizers (never raise front with rear stabs down), then use front legs to level f/r. Same advice if on soft surface to have larger solid plate/board (use 2x12 stacked and alternate grain direction if use 2 pieces) to prevent future settling. Get it level f/r and then lower rears (again, after placing some boards under them, even if not on soft surface--remember, trailer will be more steady if rears are not extended real far. After all this is done, you can place the tripod back--I don't think much of them, but for a long-term deal, probably will be an asset.

If you prefer to contact me direct---- joedobry@gmail.com might be easier to talk that way.

Joe