water leak door slide rear 2007 38RL3

[mcfarlak]

Does anyone have an Idea how to remove wet insulation from a 2007 38 ft. RL3 Elite Suite... Rear of door slide......wall at the very end is very soft and carpet is wet for about 6 inches in the very corner of the outside of the slide out. I have had several RV'ers tell me to cut the wall out from inside but do not want to mess up the factory interior if I can avoid it.....Otherwise the 07 is like new and pristine.

Thanks Ken

[wingnut60]

Have you determined where the water is coming from? That seems to be the first item to get to...I would be looking hard at the window assembly/frame/caulking. If you have the ability, might want to pull the entire window and have a look at the framing around it.
Also, check closely at the top of the slide along the flanges where the membrane is sealed to the flange.
Can't offer much else.
Wish you good luck.
Joe

[anijet]

Just had the same problem on the off door side. Determined the belt line seam about 8 inches above the electric cord door was leaking. The lower sheet metal pan is not tucked under the fiberglass panel but rather on top so if the belt line caulking is cracked water can run right in. This seam is just above the floor line. I removed the trim piece and took out the electric cord door frame. I placed a blower so that it would blow up into the wall and let it run in the sun for three days. Then reassembled everything with fresh sealant. I'm now in the process of stripping and re-caulking all the exterior seams. I'm about half done and after figuring out a method it isn't as much work as I thought it would be. As Joe mentioned, check all the roof seams also.

Edit: Just re-read your opening post and at first I missed that your problem seems to be in the slide. I think I would still try to dry out from the exterior belt line.

[mcfarlak]

Thanks Wingnut and Anijet......I think I found the leak at the bottom under the slide out. The seam had separated so I caulked it and now will try the hair dryer. The inside wall is really soft. Thanks for the help......Just hope I do not have to open the wall but afraid the insulation is to wet to totally dry out.

[wingnut60]

Hope that is the problem, but water rarely runs upwards unless it was the spray from the wheels causing the leak. If you want to dry the inside of the wall, consider making a hole that a blank outlet plate would cover so you can direct warm air into the insulation area.
My Suites came with such a blank that appears to be an outlet placement hole that was put in the wrong place during build.
Joe

[Eagle-eye]

Not to hi-jack the thread, but Leo what is you method for removing the old caulk. I have to do that this summer and was wondering the best way to remove the old caulk.

[anijet]

Not to hi-jack the thread, but Leo what is you method for removing the old caulk. I have to do that this summer and was wondering the best way to remove the old caulk.

I tried several methods including using a Dremel tool with 3M radial discs and nothing worked better than a sharpened piece of 1/8" plexiglass. I cut pieces about 8" long and 1 inch wide at the handle end and about 3/8 inch wide at the scraping end then I sharpened it with a grinder. I kept a piece of 220 grit sandpaper nearby and used that to re-sharpen when needed. It goes surprisingly quick. After trying to get it ALL off I found I didn't need to be so picky as leaving a little didn't show after applying the new clear sealer.

[Eagle-eye]

Leo, Thanks, I was thinking of using a plastic putty knife but you method sounds better. What did you use to reseal with?

[Stripit]

I used a windshield installation tool, it is about 8 inches long and maybe 1 inch wide at the widest and is a type of plastic that is tough and durable. Has 2 different ends, one was rounded and pretty sharp, not like a knife but sharp edged, the other rounded and more blunted. You can use some good force with it and not be afraid of it snapping or breaking. Cost about $4.00 and I've used it for years and normally any autobody supply house will carry them. Maybe if you stopped at a windshield replacement business and asked nice they may give you one of the used ones they have. Works GREAT for removing cauling and sealants.

[anijet]

Leo, Thanks, I was thinking of using a plastic putty knife but you method sounds better. What did you use to reseal with?

I have always used Dicor self-leveling on the roof, I tried it on horizontal and vertical seams on the side and I didn't like the outcome. -More research.- Decided to try Geocel 28100V Pro Flex Crystal Clear RV Flexible Sealant. This stuff works great and looks good when done.

My Method: Scrape using sharpened plexiglass (optional), clean with denatured alcohol, mask with blue masking tape, apply new sealant (I bought a pneumatic caulk gun $25, and worth it), smooth using FixtureDisplays 3-IN-1 Caulk Tool, remove tape as soon as possible (before the sealant skins over). Two people works best. One applies material, second comes right behind and smoothes, first person pulls tape behind the smoother.

[Eagle-eye]

Thanks Leo, I'm going to give it a try.