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oldbird
02-25-2016, 09:04 AM
Has anybody drilled a hole in the counter top for a reverse osmosis system? I know I don't have granite but not sure what the material is I have. If I try and split the counter top you know who will have my you know what!! :rolleyes: Thanks

porkchop
02-25-2016, 09:52 AM
I have. It drills very easy with no indication of splitting. It is a solid man made product and is somewhat forgiving. Only advice is to measure, measure, measure before drilling. The front end of the sink is much more difficult to find a suitable location without obstructions than the back end.
Good luck

terry and jo
02-25-2016, 11:06 AM
Glenn,

I don't know what the 2003 models used for their countertops, but in our 2010, our countertop is Corian. On our countertop, right next to the sink itself is a small gold medallion embedded within the countertop. Below is an image of our countertop with that small medallion near the lower right hand corner of the sink.

http://www.5thwheelforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_20615_0_11600e1aa737ea642c92dc50db505adb.jpg (http://s1190.photobucket.com/user/TerryandJo/media/Our%20New%20Home/DSC_8479.jpg.html)

As far as drilling in Corian, I don't have an answer for that, but you might use a search engine to see if there are instructions on how best to drill it.

Terry

oldbird
02-25-2016, 03:54 PM
Thanks porkchop and Terry & Jo! Mine is a 2008 and I'm assuming its Corian. We have a DRV dealer here in town and I went and asked their service department and they said 'no problem'. So, measure, measure, measure is great advice!

porkchop
02-25-2016, 06:54 PM
My sink area looks about the same as the picture Terry posted. To clarify=The right side is the area with the most room, at least on mine. I used a hole saw and I believe it was 7/8". your diameter may vary.

Bill

terry and jo
02-26-2016, 06:15 AM
Well, I obviously need new reading glasses. When I looked at your signature, I'd swore it said a 2003 model. That said, I imagine a 2008 will have the Corian countertop.

Sorry about that.

Terry

wingnut60
02-26-2016, 07:06 AM
Just be careful with drilling the Corian--it is a plastic base and will tend to melt if drill is forced too fast. But just about any type drill bit/saw blade will cut it if you are very careful. There should be instructions on the internet for 'drilling through Corian countertop' probably even some YouTube vids.
We had the peninsula on our '05 made into an island, and the cut was easy--but keeping the cut edge smooth was the hard part.
Joe

oldbird
02-26-2016, 08:32 AM
No problem Terry! We have just had our 'new to us' MS at our winter home here in AZ and haven't used it all winter. We will stay in it from April to Oct. Bought it in Oct and been working on it to make it the way we want it. Two satellite dishes, 17.5 H rated tires, Mor/ryde pin cushion, trailer hitch on back, four batteries, inverter for freezer, slide out toppers, etc. That's really interesting about making yours into an island wingnut60. I have kidded my wife that we will trap each other in the peninsula, LOL.

wingnut60
02-26-2016, 01:07 PM
We bought ours used, and really thought the peninsula was a nice touch, but after a couple years of use, it did become a hindrance to easy movement thru the trailer. After seeing that someone else did it, we had Crossrv.com make the mod. Did not lose any storage and now can move in both directions when at the counters.
Joe

Cummins12V98
02-26-2016, 04:08 PM
Just take a 1/4" drill bit and do a pilot hole. Now drill a hole with a sharp holesaw the diameter required. Start off slow until the teeth have started cutting then increase the speed to a medium rpm and keep steady pressure.

Reason for a pilot is sometimes the holesaw will grab and will walk across surface.

Simple, now get er done!

oldbird
02-26-2016, 05:24 PM
We bought ours used, and really thought the peninsula was a nice touch, but after a couple years of use, it did become a hindrance to easy movement thru the trailer. After seeing that someone else did it, we had Crossrv.com make the mod. Did not lose any storage and now can move in both directions when at the counters.
Joe

Sounds like a good idea, we will have to live in it awhile and see how it goes. What I don't understand is how you didn't lose any storage. There is three draws there? Got a picture, if its no problem?

Just take a 1/4" drill bit and do a pilot hole. Now drill a hole with a sharp holesaw the diameter required. Start off slow until the teeth have started cutting then increase the speed to a medium rpm and keep steady pressure.

Reason for a pilot is sometimes the holesaw will grab and will walk across surface.

Simple, now get er done!

Yes sir, I'll get er done! LOL! Right away my daughter and grandkids leave. Thanks for the suggestions!

porkchop
02-26-2016, 05:36 PM
All the hole saws I have come with a mandrel that has a pilot bit as it's center. You change the mandrels as the size changes. From 1" up they all use the same mandrel. Even a 6" hole saw has a 1/4" pilot bit

wingnut60
02-26-2016, 09:23 PM
The three drawers that were in the peninsula now reside in the opening where the peninsula was stored in the closed slide. No pics right now, trailer is at Rolling Retreats getting a complete slide seal replacement.

Now, we did lose some storage when we converted the stove top to a stove/oven 3 years ago. Anyone need 2 drawers in Cinnamon Maple?

Joe

terry and jo
02-27-2016, 12:43 AM
Joe,

Just out of curiosity, when your peninsula counter was changed to an island, did they run across a water line from the sink around to the refrigerator in the slide? When folks talk about having a refrigerator water line outside needing insulation, I've never found ours to be outside. (We have a peninsula as well.)

Thus, I've assumed the fridge water line runs around somehow from the lines to the kitchen faucet to the slide and wondered just where it was.

Terry

wingnut60
02-27-2016, 08:21 AM
You are correct--with the peninsula, the water to the ice-maker is entirely inside (have no idea where/how it used to be) and now it is outside. I have tried several methods to insulate it and none really satisfactory, but I don't camp often in below-freezing temps. Also, have never had it freeze up--yet--but I drain it every off-season. I did have the solenoid freeze and crack years ago. The new supply line is tied into the cold supply line to the bathroom sink in the basement area with a shutoff valve at the connection. It goes into the belly area, downward across to the wall where the slide is--from there on, it is exposed to ambient temps until it crosses up into the rear of the fridge area to the solenoid. I have it tied to the propane/electric lines support. After it comes into the fridge compartment, it is just the same as OEM.
One other note, I had to replace the line from the solenoid to the ice-maker after it disintegrated due to age--that was a fun experience.
We had no choice when buying used, but the TK3 was the most popular floor plan back then--and it was nice. But with 2 or 3 small dogs and Sherri cooking, it got kind of crowded. We saw a post on this forum years ago about some one changing it out at Paul Cross's place, and we took ours up there to have it done. Very happy with the change. I seem to remember the cost was $1100 or thereabouts.
Joe

wingnut60
02-27-2016, 08:31 AM
If this link works, here is a post in 2008 by nelsonraymond on the same subject...

http://www.5thwheelforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1174&highlight=kitchen+island

From a 12/2011 posting...by hitchup

We had Paul Cross at Indiana Interstate redo all of our slide awnings, add the dinette/buffet table. He uses the same cabinet shop that DRV does. I know other Suite owners have used Paul to change peninsula cabinets (TK) into a Island (RS) plan and change out new countertops and sinks. Am sure they can handle almost any kind of bookcase or cabinet. I think they may do carpet, too.

oldbird
02-27-2016, 10:26 PM
If this link works, here is a post in 2008 by nelsonraymond on the same subject...

http://www.5thwheelforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1174&highlight=kitchen+island

From a 12/2011 posting...by hitchup

We had Paul Cross at Indiana Interstate redo all of our slide awnings, add the dinette/buffet table. He uses the same cabinet shop that DRV does. I know other Suite owners have used Paul to change peninsula cabinets (TK) into a Island (RS) plan and change out new countertops and sinks. Am sure they can handle almost any kind of bookcase or cabinet. I think they may do carpet, too.

Is Paul Cross still around and in business and where is he at? My wife and I looked at the peninsula today and we think this may be a heck of a good mod!! Just a thought, couldn't the 'extra' piece of counter top be used as a flip up counter top if extra counter space is needed? Not sure what you call that, our old Travel Supreme had one. You HAD to remember to put it down before bringing the slide in or it would be crushed, LOL. Oh, forgot, there is a fine line where it looks like they joined the counter tops together right in about the spot where this mod would cut it? Of course it would look so much better rounded off like in that picture.

wingnut60
02-28-2016, 12:02 PM
Crossrv.com ought to get to him, also can google "Indiana Interstate" He is in Lagrange, IN, maybe 8-10 miles south of the DRV factory. I believe he worked at the factory when they began making Doubletree units.
Joe

oldbird
02-28-2016, 05:25 PM
Thanks Joe!

wingnut60
02-28-2016, 06:24 PM
Glenn,
Ours was cut at the place that the peninsula turn began--just a straight cut across, and some minor cosmetic repair after that. The drawers that were in the part cut out/off were placed into the opening in the slide that used to come in over the peninsula part of the counter.
It really is a neat fix if you don't like having to go completely around the counter to get to the living area. It is something that has made our trailer much more livable and enjoyable. There is nothing wrong with having a peninsula, just did not like having to walk around it to get to the recliners/sofa area.
Joe

oldbird
02-28-2016, 07:19 PM
I found his website, this sounds like a good thing to do. Between AZ and Indiana we will have plenty of time to figure it out.

wingnut60
02-28-2016, 08:05 PM
They are usually easy to talk to about what you need done. They have several hookups with water/elec available at side of building, or there are several motels not too far. Lots of stuff to do in the area--tour DRV/other factories, check out Amish furniture/food, etc.

bacardiron
03-07-2016, 08:28 PM
No problem Terry! We have just had our 'new to us' MS at our winter home here in AZ and haven't used it all winter. We will stay in it from April to Oct. Bought it in Oct and been working on it to make it the way we want it. Two satellite dishes, 17.5 H rated tires, Mor/ryde pin cushion, trailer hitch on back, four batteries, inverter for freezer, slide out toppers, etc. That's really interesting about making yours into an island wingnut60. I have kidded my wife that we will trap each other in the peninsula, LOL.
I saw in your post that you you put a trailer hitch on the back of your rig. Was this a difficult custom job? We would like to install a hitch on our 32tk3 but it looks like a big job cutting the bodywork and welding to the frame etc.

wingnut60
03-07-2016, 09:21 PM
Should not have to cut any of the body work. Haven't seen oldbird's, but I was going to have one put on ours and it would have been entirely under the rear cap--no fiberglass cutting. There is a lot of work underneath involving taking off the belly cover and removing the spare tire/housing/crank to do the work, and then replacing it all. I would have gotten it done by a welder that did all Bennetts in Granbury, TX, work, but he was injured severely in a wreck and can't weld anymore. His was a hitch and a flip-up platform--pretty neat, about $1200 at the time.

oldbird
03-07-2016, 10:40 PM
First of all, drilled a hole for the reverse osmosis and it went OK, no problems.

As far as the hitch, I hired it out at a welding shop. We have a DRV dealer here in town and he recommended him to me, said he had done a lot of them. I dropped it off early in the morning and out of curoisty went back in the middle of the day to check on them. This guy defiantly knew what he was doing. Had it cut open without removing the spare tire & crank. He bragged about the frame being pretty tough and easy to weld to. Never cut the fiberglass and tied into the lights to make a plug in. When I picked it up (it was over a pit) I took a look and he put it back together like it was never opened up. I put a little caulk on some spots to keep mice out but I told them all it was a professional job!! If your interested I'll take a picture tomorrow.

porkchop
03-08-2016, 09:36 AM
I went to Lippert Service center in Goshen, IN to have mine installed. Took them 2.5 hours and looks very good. Only opened what was necessary and put it back professionally. Don't remember what it cost.

Bill

bacardiron
03-08-2016, 01:12 PM
Thanks Glenn; a picture would be awesome if possible. I live on the west coast in Canada and the rv dealers up here leave a lot to be desired.

oldbird
03-08-2016, 03:41 PM
They didn't turn out very well but here you go. Mine was $650 installed complete.

http://www.5thwheelforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_20703_0_154a03408f053b5199f66fb9c3758419.jpg (http://s1282.photobucket.com/user/oldbird1965/media/Mobile%20Uploads/1457472747_zpssr0iasib.jpg.html)

http://www.5thwheelforums.com/attachments/photobucket/img_20703_1_300c626d29dbf6b071245be00557dbf4.jpg (http://s1282.photobucket.com/user/oldbird1965/media/Mobile%20Uploads/1457472972_zpsfvtpad6t.jpg.html)

porkchop
03-12-2016, 10:18 AM
I found the receipt from Lippert this morning. Hitch cost $367.-labor, 1/2 hr. $50=$417 and factory warranty.

Bill