Water heater weeping

[Gemstone]

So, I finally got tired of the water heater hi temp/hi pressure valve weeping/leaking down onto the electrical connections to the solenoids...and eventually down the side of the RV. The factory design by Suburban left a little to be desired. After replacing the valve, and still leaking, I verified the water temp wasn't too high, and my well cuts off at 60 pounds, so my incoming pressure wasn't too high.... and changing out the control board is a major PITA, given where the installers have placed it, so I just accepted that it would intermittently dribble.
So I made a way for it to dribble directly into the city water connection box, directly below the water heater and thus out the trap door, and onto the ground, bypassing all of the electrical connections....by adding a length of 3/4" PEX pipe, and drilling a 1" hole in the sheet metal floor of the water heater housing.
I didn't exactly address the cause, but I did address the results....I'm satisfied for now.

Regards
Gemstone

[golf_bears]

Sounds like a good solution. Perhaps you've lost the air gap/space in the tank? It bleeds out after a while and needs to be replaced periodically.

[netjam]

Gemstone.....good solution. Tried the air into the top of tank thing (didn't work) and eventually drilled a hole in the water heater cover for a hose. Connected the prv with a hose going out the hole in the cover so the weeping would fall harmlessly to the ground.

[billr]

The relief valve is not bad to replace. 10 min job. Picked one up at Ace hardware $15 no more weeping. There is a special tool to remove it available. Its like a strange shaped socket. Maybe can cut up a large deep socket and slide on it to turn it loose. I borrowed one from a friend. You have to remove the metal shroud to get it out.

The seat in the valve gets calcium build up and unseats when the pressure is dropped. Maybe can be cleaned and put back in. I just went with a new one.

Can't believe I let it leak so long off and on.

Bill

[2blackdogs]

Gemstone,
I had the same problem and it's easily remedied.
Turn off the main water supply and go inside and turn on the hot water faucet and let it drain until it stops. This puts a small amount of air in the tank.
The water heater needs an air pocket to allow for expansion of the hot water. If the air pocket is not there there is only one place for the water to go as it expands and that is out of the relief valve.
If you have already did this you may have purchased a defective replacement.????
Over the years I have sold hundreds and hundreds of relief valves, big and small, and a few have been defective but I think your main problem is the air pocket.

[rjohnsonnm]

Actually, air in the top of the water heater is not a good thing. The oxygen causes corrosion, leading to a new water heater sooner. When the hot water expands the pressure is automatically relieved by the hot water backing up into the supply line leading to the water heater, just like in your house. The only time you want an air cushion is to prevent water hammer (which is not your problem), and you don't put the air in the water heater. If you still have the problem, you probably have a defective valve from the store. One thing you might try is to open the valve when it's pressurized and let it snap shut. Be careful if the water is hot. I have to do that when I fill the system at the beginning of the season. It weeps for a few minutes and then stops. Running a drain from the relief valve is really not something that you should have to do. (BTW, I was a Machinist Mate in the Navy for 10 years, so I've worked with a lot of water systems)
Ron

[Motor31]

Actually, given the design of the RV water heaters, air in the tank is a good thing. There is a check or anti back flow valve on the inlet line to the water heater that prevents pressure from backing back into the water line, pressurizing it to beyond it's capacity and creating a leak. It also prevents the water heater from trying to heat the water in the line outside the heater so that it is not constantly running. That same check valve is the one that create a humming sound when it starts to go bad as you use the hot water. There is a similar valve on the shore water inlet connection point to prevent the water pump from dumping water out of the rig when you turn it on while dry camping. The RV system is quite different from the boiler in a naval ship.

The suburban manual I have for my rig on page 6 specifically states to prevent the dripping or weeping from the pressure relief valve you should allow an air pocket to be formed inside the tank. The instructions state; "This air pocket will form in the tank by design. However it may be diminished by use". They follow that statement with instructions for reforming the air pocket. by turning off the inlet water, opening a faucet inside then opening the pressure relief valve until water stops flowing out of it. At that point close the valve, faucet and open the water line in that order. Doing so will reduce or eliminate the weeping from the valve as the water expands due to heating. An additional option is to install an accumulator tank.

[rjohnsonnm]

I stand corrected. Obviously RV water heaters and home water heaters are not piped the same. Mea culpa.
Ron

[Gemstone]

"Turn off the main water supply and go inside and turn on the hot water faucet and let it drain until it stops. This puts a small amount of air in the tank"....
Yep, done that. It does not weep all the time....just when it feels like it...no rhyme or reason.
So, with my overflow pipe extended, I don't care how ofter it gets a wild hair and decides to leak, 'cause now it goes out on the ground, not down the side of the rig.
Thanks for the comments...it's what sets this forum apart.

Regards
Gemstone

[RodeWorthy]

Gemstone,
Good solution. I did much the same but the discharge is out the side. Yours is no doubt safer. One would not want to stand in front of my pipe when opening the valve. After replacing the valve I have had very little discharge.

Pictures show the tool Billr mentioned. It could easily be fabricated but I couldn't resist it when it was in my hand at RV Connections in Yuma.

I also installed an accumulator and that has been a great boon when working off the pump while dry camping.

[Gemstone]

Yep, that looks like a good solution too....anything to prevent water from dripping on the solenoid valve connections....I can't believe the stupid feat of engineering by Suburban...

Regards
Gemstone

[Carny Bill]

Only to be outdone by dometic. Such junk, 80 percent of my rigs problems are with dometic

[rotaxman]

Carny,
Couldn't agree more about Dometic if its Dometic its junk.

As always good camping
Joyce and Jerry

[rotaxman]

Don,

Haven't heard from you for ever. Hope you and Stella are doing well and that everything is going good.

As always good camping
Jerry and Joyce