Torque Wrench Advice, Please.

[terry and jo]

So, in reading different forums, it seems apparent that anyone owning a Suites model with the disk brakes needs to have a torque wrench. While I know what they are and a "somewhat" idea of how to use them, I have NEVER had any experience with any of them. My tool of choice in the past has been a 4-way crossover lug wrench.

I searched for and found a couple of threads on SOITC's forums and roughly 34 different threads here on Fifth Wheel Forums, some of which only picked up on the word "wrench" and weren't even related to torque wrenches.

Some had suggested a "$30 or $40" one from Autozone or whatever. However, what I would like to know is what do I need to AVOID, if anything.

So, I'm asking again for the great folks here for your advice.

Is there any brands, types, models that I should avoid like the plague?

Is calibration of the torque wrench critical, and if so, any ideas on how to do that?

If anyone has other points to make regarding the torque wrench or its use, I welcome any comments that you have to make.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Terry

[golf_bears]

I got mine at Sears. It's adjustable to at least 200 ft #. I'm assuming you have the 17-1/2" H tires with the larger lugs. If so, you need a min. of 150ft # of torque on the lug nuts.

In addition you'll need the correct size sockets (six points) for the lug nuts and the bolts on the pin box. I suggest you also get a few extension bars, at least a 3" one.

Don’t go cheap, at those torques you’ll just twist the extension bars or strip the hex out of the socket especially if something gets rusty.

[wingnut60]

This is a tool that will last a lifetime if you buy quality and take care of it. I have a Great Neck adjustable that tops at 150# and have had it for some 10 years. Can't go wrong with Craftsman, cause you can take it to any Sears and get a replacement if something does crater on it. Don't get one of the old-style dial (long metal indicator and plate) ones. get an adjustable one and set it and forget it....a 3" extension will help save knuckles when working on the wheel lugs.
Joe

[Gemstone]

"Don't get one of the old-style dial (long metal indicator and plate) ones."

So, if I have one of these....does it mean I'm old ? Guess my Sears torque wrench must be 30-40 years old by now...

Regards
old Gemstone

[anijet]

My experience from 40 years in aviation maintenance.

Dial indicator wrenches are the most expensive and most accurate but somewhat difficult to use in high torque applications (hard to see the dial when applying 140# of torque). These must be calibrated regularly.

Snap-over (click type) are the easiest to use, least accurate, go out of calibration easily and must be checked regularly. They must always be turned down to zero when not in use. I use Snap-on and Proto but calibrate each 3 months.

Simple bending beam wrench is the least expensive and although calibration is recommended they almost never go out of calibration unless grossly mis-used. This is what I carry in the truck. Sometimes KIS(Silly) is still the best.

[Stripit]

I bought my click type at the local NAPA store for about $80 when I discovered to pull the drums (if you have never Lube bearings) to inspect the electric brakes you had to retorque the cap lock nut to 145 foot pounds. I've also used it to remove and retorque the drain plug in the water heater along with the wheel lug nuts. So it gets used many times a year, well worth owning.

[Motor31]

Something to consider. Any torque wrench is more accurate than no torque wrench. You won't be putting the amount of use on a personal wrench that a mechanic would on one for work. I prefer the snap over wrench and have one for the wheel lugs. I've used it this year as I had to remove tires to change them and wanted to get the torque setting correct.

If you are currently using a 4 way wrench to change tires, you are not getting close to the proper torque for the wheels. Get a cheap torque wrench from harbor freight if you have to and use that to set the wheel torque. It's better than no wrench and the 4 way to boot.

A torque wrench is most accurate in the middle of it's range rather than either end. You may need multiple wrenches to cover the spectrum of torque values. You will need at least a half inch drive wrench for the wheels as that torque goes to 150 Ft Lbs. They are easy to use and if you buy new will have an instruction booklet.

[wingnut60]

I misstated the name of the wrench I was trying to describe--instead of dial, I should have said 'bending beam' type. I forgot there is actually a dial-readout type. I can remember trying to look sideways at the 'dial' face on my old torque wrench when putting cylinder heads back on--torque readings were subject to change as I moved my head trying to get the correct angle to look at the face/plate line.

and, yes, Gemstone we are both kind of old if we have one of these, I would think.

Thanks, anijet, for using the correct name for me.

Joe

[anijet]

......A torque wrench is most accurate in the middle of it's range rather than either end. You may need multiple wrenches to cover the spectrum of torque values........

Good point.

To one of your other points, I have a Proto click wrench I've had a long time that I use when at home. I've never calibrated it but it always seemed to over toruqe. I finally checked it a while back and at 140 it was really 165 so I just use the beam wrench now.

[Red Ram]

One other thing that has not been touched on is, when torquing you should use an even steady pull on the torque wrench. I cringe when I see the tire jockey's jerking on their click over torque wrench when installing tires.

[Huck]

I cringe when I see the tire jockey's jerking on their click over torque wrench when installing tires.

ME TOO!
I watched a young fella doing just that when I bought new tires one time at Walmart.
I drove home and re-torqued the wheels my self. I couldn't hardly beleave how bad his torque job was. I shouldn't have drove the car anywhere.
It made me wonder how many of his wheels have fallen off the cars he has worked on.
Or worse yet, how many people have died because of this ignorant fella.

[terry and jo]

You guys have been great. We were near Sears today so we drove over to see what they had in the way of torque wrenches.

Now, because of that, I have a follow up question. I'm certainly not interested in the "bending beam" or "visible dial" style. But, I also didn't see any like that anyway.

What I did see that somewhat interested me was two different ones. There was a $80 one that had a rotating dial on the shank for setting the target setting. Then there was a $120 one that had a digital readout for setting the target setting.

So, while I don't REALLY want to spend the extra $40 (if I went with Sears), would the digital one really be better? I would think with a digital readout, the dang thing probably has to have a battery to operate that. It would just be my luck the battery would go dead just when I needed to use the wrench.

While I like the idea of the Craftsman because of their warranties on tools, I plan on looking at a few other places. However, I did buy a 6-point socket and about a 6" extension at Sears. I know that those two items need to be quality.

Thanks again for your help.

Terry

[Richard Miller]

Sears does not warranty torque wrenches. KOBALT at Lowes makes a nice wrench and made in USA.

[The View 5046]

Terry thats correct Sears doesn't warranty torq wrenches. I have a digital type thats been broken and Sears wouldn't replace it. And I have a beam type also. I went to Wally World a fews year back and bought what ever brand they sell. It works ok, but torqing isn't some thing you have to do often. As you know we just finished a 6,000 mile Western swing and only checked torq once, and none were loose.

I also don't allow a impact wrench to be used on anything but the Freightliner. All of the tire shops that are professional will set the torq after removing and replacing a wheel in any Vehicle the service. Thats just my opinion. Other have dfferent opinions. GBY...................

P.S. Back in Tennessee, in Clarksville, Tn. visiting the Grand Kids. Will go back to home base on Monday.

[terry and jo]

Jo and I did some looking around this last week. I finally got to Autozone and I also checked out the Kobalt torque wrenches at Lowes.

So, with Sears, the 25-250 wrench sold for $120, the 25-250 Kobalt at Lowes was $95, and the one at Autozone was a brand called OEM and their 25-250 was selling for $80.

I've never heard of OEM, so I don't know what those are like. I first questioned whether "OEM" meant "original equipment manufacturer", but when I went to Autozone's website, they have them listed as a brand name. Both the Sears and the Kobalt come with a 1 year warranty, and likely the OEM may as well.

Also, I went out and looked through the DRV Suites owner's manual and they specify that one start out by first using 20 ft lbs of torque and then go around again with 80 ft lbs of torque, and ending up with a third round at 120-150 ft lbs. DRV Suites seems to think it is important if they are advising such procedures.

Now, I just have to decide for sure which wrench that I want. The Sears one had the digital readout on the settings, and the Kobalt and OEM had the "dial" control for setting the ft lbs.

Thanks again for all your help.

Terry

[Beachgirl]

I know this is an old thread, but we are going to go get our Suite out of storage and I want to get a wrench to check torque before towing. I read all the posts I could find, but, alas, it's all Greek to me. I know I need to buy a good quality wrench. I read that Terry considered Kobalt. I read there are 3 different kinds. Would you master mechanics just simplify this for me? Tell me what to buy, where. LOL

Also, we're planning to go to Southern Cal in January, as dh retires in Dec. It will be our first big trip. The tires scare me, even though our Suite is just 7 months old. I want to have the tire monitor installed. I'm thinking of going with the TST system. Do I just go to a mechanic to get it installed? Or is it a relatively easy DYI? My hubbie is fairly handy.

I apologize for such newbie questions. Sometimes when I read on the forum the what can go wrongs seem overwhelming. But I love my Suite!!
Beachgirl

[golf_bears]

You can get a good torque wrench at Sears along with a number of other places. I do not know what tires you are running, the 16" or the 17-1/2", but the torque wrench should be capable to about 200 ft lbs.

The TST TPMS is a great system and is easy to install and program. You can order the TST system direct from them. Here's their web site, just click on it.

http://www.tsttruck.com/[/url]

[The View 5046]

Beachgirl, Sears, Home Depol, Lowes and almost anyone sales tool will sale a Torq Wrench, as say try to get one thats 200 lbs or more.

As for the tire monitoring system, I have a Pressure Pro system which I bought from Pat & Mike McFall, full time RVer's they sale RV things as a side. The are very Honest and will back up what they sell. The Pressure Pro system I have used for 6 years, sold my last Truck and the buyer talked me into leaving? So I order another set, it has 10 sensors and they are very easy to install very easy to set up and if you have a issue call Pat or Mike they will take care of your issue. I have never met them personally, however I have talked to Pat many time... Since we got our 2010 Mobile Suites we have never had a issue with loose lug nuts. I just had all the tires balanced in Sept and check the Torq after the first 30 miles and again at 90 miles all lugs were at the correct torq. Good Luck.....Happy Trails...

[USA in a Chevrolet]

You can buy the type of torque wrench with the dial at the bottom of the handle for about $20 at Harbor Freight. I have one & it works well.

[Richard Miller]

Sorry (USA IN A CHEVORLET) I do not post very often on any forum but I can't resist it right now. The Torque wrench from Lowes (KOBALT) is made in the USA!!! the one from Harbor Freight IS NOT. Just pick it up and you can tell the difference in quality.

[Walt]

I have a 1/2" and 3/4" drive from Harbor Freight and feel they are good enought for lug and axles nuts. The 3/4" has a long handle for easier leverage than the 1/2". To each his own!!

[USA in a Chevrolet]

Sorry (USA IN A CHEVORLET) I do not post very often on any forum but I can't resist it right now. The Torque wrench from Lowes (KOBALT) is made in the USA!!! the one from Harbor Freight IS NOT. Just pick it up and you can tell the difference in quality.

I try to buy items made in the USA whenever possible. However, I use that torque wrench only a few times a year & it is not worth spending the money on the one made in the USA. Are you suggesting buying the Kobalt tool because of its quality or because it is made in the USA?

[Motor31]

Unless a tire has been changed there should be no reason to reset the torque on the wheels. If they were torqued properly before they should remain so even after storage. In the case of aluminum wheels with steel cone lug nuts the nuts tend to gall the wheels in contact with the nuts further reducing the chance of loosening them by sitting much less rolling down the road. It took far more than 150 lbs to remove the lugs when I changed tires the other year and again when I replaced a bent axle last year.

Talking to the dexter folks after we got the rig I asked about the torque procedure. Once the lugs have been torqued properly there was no reason to redo it without having removed the lugs first.

I also agree that the cheaper unit from harbor freight is adequate for the job. Unless you are going to use the torque wrench regularly getting one of the premier brands is simply a waste of money. It's your money though so spend it as you wish.

[terry and jo]

Beachgirl,

If I remember right, I think you were getting a 38-foot Mobile Suites. As such, you will have the 17.5" wheels. Ours is a 38TKSB3 so it has the same. I went with the Kobalt from Lowes at roughly $95. It is capable of up to 250 foot lbs of torque.

When I researched, I was told to purchase a torque wrench where the range of torque needed was in the middle of the range of the torque wrench. Since the wheel lugs on ours are rated at 125 ft lbs, I wanted a wrench that went up to 250 ft lbs and the Kobalt met that need. It was also a lot cheaper than the 250 ft lb wrench at Sears. Oddly enough, while the paperwork says it has a one year warranty, the box it came in says it is a lifetime warranty.

I looked at both Harbor Freight and Northern Tools and didn't like what I saw as options, even though they were cheaper. My philosophy is that a cheap tool is just that. As such, a cheap torque wrench may get out of calibration.

Your owner's manual gives a procedure for torquing after changing a tire. On ours, one first torques all nuts to 20 ft lbs, then back off the wrench to "0" then set to 80 ft lbs and torque all of them again. Then back off the wrench to "0" before setting it to 125 ft lbs and doing the final torque.

As for tire pressure monitoring systems, we have one called nVISION and I'm not too pleased with it. However, I know of quite a few RV'ers that have the Pressure Pro system and really like it. I haven't heard as much from those that have the TST system.

Good luck with your traveling.

Terry