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traveler
02-22-2010, 08:05 PM
I have a 2005 TK3 that has not had many issues but I have one now. I have never had a dripping pressure relief valve, but one has recently developed.

I have tried all recommended remedial steps but nothing has helped. The drip is not continuous but not minimal either.

I am beginning to think that the valve will not hold its design pressure and needs to be changed. However, I am hesitant to do this since the valve is so corroded. Perhaps WD40 will free is up but it looks like I will need to turn the wrench very strongly. I am worried that I will strip threads or damage the water heater.

Any advice or suggestions?

wingnut60
02-22-2010, 09:45 PM
Have you drained the tank via low-point drains? This may be necessary to get the air bubble back into the tank. Having an air cushion on the top of the water will prevent the pressure from rising to the point the valve leaks. A completely full tank of water will try to expand as temps rise--having the air in the tank will compress some and keep the pressure on the valve lower. Water can't compress and will push against the valve as the temp rises. Can't hurt to try this if hasn't been done already. Otherwise, you are probably going to have to break the valve loose. There are several more effective rust dissolvers than WD40--also heating carefully with a small torch on the valve body may break a rust lock loose.
Joe

Gemstone
02-23-2010, 07:50 AM
You'll want to be extra careful with that valve removal...I just replaced the 12 gallon water heater (tank leaking)....to the tune of $583...and I got a deal.
In the old tank I found the anode rod was completely gone...I'll now make that an annual inspection item. But just for grins, I cut the tank open and found it relatively free of deposits (even after spending winters in Yuma)...with the exception of the heating element, which was completely crusted over. This no doubt caused the heater to function less efficiently.

Regards
Gemstone

traveler
02-23-2010, 08:39 AM
Thanks to all. I will try the low water drain first. Then I will replace valve if, necessary. I received a suggestion to use a product called PB Blaster to brake the valve loose. I will try it if I have to go that route.